“In ancient mythologies, the Caucasus mountains represented the end of the world. For the Greeks, they were the pillars of the world. Prometheus, after bringing the gift of fire to humans, was punished by the gods: he was chained to the Caucasus mountains and his liver was eaten daily by an eagle.”11
I traveled through these beautiful mountains with the 2018 Holy Martyrs Apostolic Armenian Church of Bayside to reach Stepanakert, in the breakaway Republic of Artsakh, known internationally as Nagorno-Karabakh. Kirk Kerkorian, the businessman who built Las Vegas, Car and airline industries, Lincy foundation covered half of the cost of an 80-kilometer highway connecting Armenia, his ancestral homeland, to Artsakh (Nagorno-Karabakh).2 We passed through mines. As we entered the capital city of Stepanakert, I was amazed by its modern buildings, affluence, that was like Yerevan, Armenia. Stepanakert is located on the Karabakh plateau. Wealth in the middle of the Caucasus mountains! The Vallex Garden Hotel had Greek architecture on a high hill overlooking the city. Modern apartment buildings overlooked the legendary Caucasus mountains.
“Stepanakert is the center of the economy of Artsakh. Prior to the 1991-92 Nagorno-Karabakh War, the economy of Stepanakert was mainly based on food-processing industries, silk weaving and winemaking. The economy was severely damaged during the war. However, in recent years, the economy has been developed mainly due to investments from the Armenian diaspora. The most developed sectors of Stepanakert and the rest of the Republic of Artsakh are tourism and services. Several hotels have been opened by diaspora Armenians from Russia, the United States and Australia. Artsakh bank is the largest banking services provider in Artsakh. Karabakh Telecom is the leading provider of mobile telecommunications and other communication services. Stepanakert is also home to many large industrial firms, including Stepanakert Brandy Factory, Artsakh Berry food products and Artsakh Footwear Factory. Construction is also one of the leading sectors in the city. Artsakh Hek is the leading construction firm, while Base Metals is the leader in mining and production of building materials.”3 This was before September 27th, 2020 when the war with Azerbaijan was renewed.
My hotel room at Valex Garden Hotel room had comfortable, immaculate, modern accommodations. The staff tried to please us in every way. Construction was taking place. The Ministry of Foreign Affairs is where we acquired our visa. Posters of politicians famous Armenians and regions were displayed in the halls. Immaculate gardens surrounded the building. Spotless streets had large billboard business posters. Liquor is popular. The city had a Mediterranean, cosmopolitan air with modern cars. I did not see gypsies anywhere. There were Mediterranean style villas at the outskirts of Stepanakert. On our bus tour, we saw St. James Church. “The church of Surp Hakob (or Saint James) was opened in 2007; it remained the only open church in the city until 2019. The church was financed by Nerses Yepremian from Los Angeles. The church was consecrated on 9 May 2007, in honor of the 15th anniversary of the liberation of Shushi.”4 The Stepanakert Children’s and Teenage Creativity Center and Holy Mother of God Cathedral were some of the sights.
Walking at night through the streets reminded me of my family’s city of Tripoli, in the Arcadian mountains of the Peloponnese, Greece. In the dark, we walked in safety, seeing nighttime Renaissance Square. It is the main square of Stepanakert, the capital of the unrecognized country of Artsakh. It was built in 1994 following the Capture of Shushi and the liberation of the area by the Armenian Army and the Artsakh Defense Army. The following landmarks and buildings are located on the square: Presidential Palace; Artsakh Freedom Fighters Union building; National Assembly of Artsakh; Embassy of Armenia; Palace of Youth and Armenia Hotel. The square commonly hosts political and social rallies, weapons exhibitions,[ New Year’s Eve events and processions.5 An image that remains: a beautiful city with clean air that I could walk at night without being afraid of being mugged.
Ministry of Foreign Affairs
Today Stepanakert does not exist as I knew it. I wonder if these gracious persons are alive. Are the young men surviving the war? Father Abraham Malkhasyan, in an October 25th Zoom session hosted by Aram Ciamician and assisted by Lara Manjares Ciamician, said “We are the only ancient nation that have survived the ages. We are not victims. We are a victorious nation. We have a country called Armenia. A miracle! We must pray and have positive interactions with our neighbors.”
Stepanakert
Stepanakert Children’s and Teenage Creativity Center
I am extremely lucky I went, because of my family and friends Carol and Mardo Anastasian. I wanted to cancel out several times. The Anastasians said “you must see Armenia.” My trip was a miracle that changed my outlook on life, even though I had food poisoning, landed in a Yerevan hospital, and left two days earlier. Special appreciation to Father Abraham Malkhasyan, whose prayers helped me in Armenia, Parish Council President Aram Ciamician organizer of the “Pilgrimage to Armenia” of the Holy Martyrs Church, Bayside with the Fund for Armenian Relief (FAR), before the Covid-19 virus pandemic. Tour guide Garush, a brilliant native-born Armenian father of a young son, spoke perfect English. I saw Stepanakert in “the pillars of the world” Caucasus mountains immortalized in Greek mythology.
Renaissance Square
Vallex Garden Hotel
References:
- https://medium.com/@grexovic/caucasus-the-mountain-where-they-chained-prometheus-564c1ef83bab
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Kirk_Kerkorian
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stepanakert#Nagorno-Karabakh_War_and_independence
- https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Stepanakert
- wikipedia.org/wiki/Renaissance_Square,_Stepanakert
Links:
https://youtu.be/zss3VgZ8y2E – video
https://youtu.be/1Ht9v3JUOb0 – video
Greek American Experience 
It must have been interesting to see parts of a country that is usually not on other’s lists of travel destinations. 🙂
LikeLike
An honor to see the Caucasus Mountains
LikeLiked by 1 person